Anxious Dogs on Halloween | Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Hi anxious dogs (and their owners too!)
We just got back from a walk and boy is it ever spooky out! There are lots of kids and adults running around in scary costumes and firecrackers going off. As an anxious dog I found it very stressful! Here are some tips that my owners use to help me and my sister stay calm and happy when things spook us out, especially around Halloween:

Tip One: Always Stay Happy!
When your dog gets scared by a person wearing a costume that looks weird to them or a loud firecracker always use an upbeat and happy voice and maybe even try playing with your dog. Us anxious dogs really appreciate that when we are stressed… NEVER yell at us because then you are confirming that there really is something to be afraid of!

Tip Two: Avoidance and Space are Key.
Most of us anxious dogs (especially me!) are very proximity sensitive, meaning we are very aware of how close scary things get to us and get even more scared and anxious when they get closer. Be aware of this and give your anxious dog space. If you see a trick-or-treater coming down the street cross the road so we anxious dogs don’t have to feel stressed about the approach of scary things we do not recognize!

Tip Three: Keep Us Away from Ding-dong SCARY COSTUMES!!
All anxious dogs will be very thankful if you keep us away from the door when all the trick-or-treaters come knocking. Keep us in a safe place ideally where we can not hear the doorbell. This will help keep our stress levels down so we can be calm and happy dogs.

Tip Four: Distractions are Key
In any situation but especially if you are leaving us home alone and we have separation anxiety be sure to leave us with something to do. A frozen Kong works best filled with your anxious dog’s favorite food and treats! Also if people in your neighborhood like to light off firecracker be sure to put some classical music on to drown out the noise and keep us calm. Speaking of calm don’t forget to plug in the DAP Dog Appeasing Pheromone Electric Diffuser and give us Rescue Remedy! And definitely DON NOT let us look out the window at all of the ghosts and goblins walking by the house!

I hope this helps you all! Have a safe and happy Halloween!

Your pal,
Manchego the Anxious Dog

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Part 5Behavior Modification for Departures

The intention of this blog is to give you some training ideas for a dog with separation anxiety.

Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately this often exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore the dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which she is fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior.

You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety.

Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors you leave and return can also mix up cues for your dog.

When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on).

Another technique:

The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months.

Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety.

Dogs & Separation Anxiety

Dogs are the happiest when they are with their best pal-you.  Often people treat the symptoms of separation anxiety without understanding what this causing the behavior and fixing it at the root of the problem.

This article from the Humane Society addresses ways to help you help your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit distress and behavior problems when they’re left alone. The most common behaviors include:

• Digging and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to reunite with their owners

• Destructive chewing


• Howling, barking, and whining


• Urination and defecation (even with otherwise housetrained dogs)

Is it separation anxiety?

If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

• The behavior occurs primarily when he’s left alone and typically begins soon after you leave.


• He follows you from room to room whenever you’re home.


• He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.


• The behavior occurs whether he’s left alone for short or long periods.


• He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.

What causes separation anxiety

It’s not fully understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and others don’t. But it’s important to realize that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are part of a panic response. Your dog isn’t trying to punish you for leaving him alone.

Following are some common scenarios that can trigger separation anxiety:

• A dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.


• A dog suffers a traumatic event (from his viewpoint), such as time at a shelter or boarding kennel.


• There’s a change in the family’s routine or structure or the loss of a family member or other pet.

How to treat minor separation anxiety

• Don’t make a big deal out of arrivals and departures. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes then calmly pet him.
  Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old T-shirt that you’ve slept in recently.


• Establish a safety cue—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back.


• Consider using an over-the-counter calming product that may reduce fearfulness in dogs.

How to handle a more severe problem

Use the techniques outlined above along with desensitization training. Teach your dog the sit-stay and down-stay commands using positive reinforcement. This training will help him learn that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another room.

Create a “safe place” to limit your dog’s ability to be destructive. A safe place should:

• Confine loosely rather than strictly (a room with a window and distractions rather than total isolation)


• Contain busy toys for distraction


• Have dirty laundry to lend a calming olfactory cue or other safety cues.

What to do in the meantime

It can take time for your dog to unlearn his panic response to your departures. To help you and your dog cope in the short term, consider the following interim solutions:

• Ask your veterinarian about drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug shouldn’t sedate your dog but simply reduce his overall anxiety.


• Take your dog to a doggie day care facility or kennel when you have to be away.


• Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor when you’re away.


• Take your dog to work with you, if possible.

What won’t help

• 
  Punishment. Punishment isn’t effective for treating separation anxiety and can make the situation worse. The destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety aren’t your dog’s revenge for being left alone: they’re part of a panic response.


• 
  Another dog. Getting your dog a companion usually doesn’t help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, not just the result of being alone.


• 
  Crating. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses inside a crate, and he may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape. Instead, create other kinds of “safe places” as described above.


• 
  Radio/TV noise. Leaving the radio or television on won’t help (unless the radio or TV is used as a safety cue).


• 
  Obedience training. While formal training is always a good idea, separation anxiety isn’t the result of disobedience or lack of training; therefore, it won’t help this particular issue.

The Thundershirt helps dogs with separation anxiety by gently swaddling them.  Learn more about Thundershirt.

Separation Anxiety in Dogs Can Be Cured...

Dogs are social animals, and they naturally bond with family members in their household. When separated from their family, certain dogs can become extremely stressed. These dogs act out as a result of the fear and anxiety triggered by their separation from you.  Many dog owners mistakenly assume these behaviors are a result of spite, disobedience or poor training. Your dog is not a bad dog. His bad behavior may be the result of separation anxiety.

Let’s start with what separation anxiety actually is.  Your dog becomes so stressed in your absence (sometimes even if you simply go into the next room where he can’t see you) that he cannot cope with being alone.  He then tries to do whatever methods he thinks will get you to come back and to work through his stress — barking, destruction by digging and/or chewing, peeing and pooping, or a combination of some or even all of these. Ultimately, he is having a panic attack.  It’s a common problem with adopted dogs, retrievers, and small dogs.  However, other dogs can also suffer — and they do suffer — from separation anxiety, too.

Please realize that he is not doing this in retaliation for your leaving. TREATING A SYMPTOM (barking, destruction, house soiling) DOESN’T WORK because it doesn’t get to the cause of the problem — it’s comparable to putting a bandage on a broken leg because that will stop the bleeding, but it sure doesn’t mend the broken leg! Punishing him doesn’t work because he literally can’t help himself.  It’s as if he was gasping for air and he’s trying to do everything he can to get more oxygen. You may have read or tried several “solutions” to alleviate separation anxiety or even worked with other trainers, yet your dog still is suffering. Cookie cutter approaches and quick fixes do not work! So the first thing we need to do is to see whether it truly IS separation anxiety — there could be other reasons for your dog’s behavior.

Here are some things to think about:

*There is a difference between SEPARATION anxiety – “I’m so stressed when you’re not here that I’m panicking” – and SEPARATING anxiety – “I’m in control here. You can’t leave because then I won’t have anyone to boss around.”

*There’s also a difference in degree – mild, moderate, or severe.

*Your dog could simply be bored – “No one’s here and there’s nothing to do, so I’ll just tear up the place because it’s fun.”

*He could be calling you home – “I’m just going to bark and bark because I don’t want you to forget where you live, and you’ve always come back when I’ve barked before.” Alternatively – “I’ll just pee and poop because then you can follow your nose home because you know what I smell like.”

*Maybe he’s sick and you haven’t noticed – “I really don’t feel good and I need someone to comfort me.”

*Possibly he’s uncomfortable – “I’m freezing.  Help!”

*Maybe he’s afraid of something – “That garbage truck makes a lot of noise and scares me.”

*There may be other creatures outside – “Don’t you dare come into MY territory.”

Those are a few of the scenarios, and each case is unique and involves a specific program tailored to each dog. It involves substituting new wanted behaviors for old unwanted ones by working on your dog’s senses – sight, smell, sound, touch, and even taste. It involves behavior modification on his part — and yours!  You may have even asked your veterinarian to help with medication — but medication alone will not solve the problem. Medication may help because it changes your dog’s brain chemistry so learning can take place easier. Your dog needs help with behavior modification and training so his behavior will change.

What Helps Dogs with Separation Anxiety?

Grounding -Dogs with separation anxiety need your help, and the first thing to do is to start having your dog do things respond to commands for everything he gets — food, attention, treats, play and walks all happen after he listens and responds to a command such as sit. This will calm him and help reassure him that you are leading the team. For complete guidelines click here.

Space-Separation anxiety dogs are often “owner addicts.” They want to be leaning, touching, sitting on, gazing up at or sitting their owners every moment. This needs to change. Get a dog bed. It doesn’t have to be fancy — a folded blanket will do — and give him all his petting and attention there. Treats are given there. Meals are given there. Make this the best seat in the house. Do not call him off of the bed to come to you, and leave him be when he is on it. This may be hard for you at first but things have to change, right?

Teach-Get the interaction you crave through training. Take a class, pick up a dog sport and find new ways to spend time with your dog — ways that don’t involve you attending to his needy side. If you want him more confident, you need to build his confidence through daily, fun training sessions. Developing shared communication between the two of you is a gift only you can give your dog.

Confinement -Many dogs can learn to be contentedly crated, as long as you take the time to make the crate a pleasant spot. Crating an anxious dog can prevent mishaps and calm him. If he is clean in his crate, the crate can be as large as you want. Start slowly. Introduce crating with treats — feed him in the crate and then crate for short periods when you are home. If you only crate when you leave, that can create crate stress.

Exercise- Physical Long walks, solo fetch games up slight hills and swimming are all good ways to give your dog a work out. Playing wrestle-mania with a friend’s dog works some dogs up, leaving them more excited and active. How do you know when you’ve found the right routine? When your dog is calmer after the session than before.

Mental- Mental exercise is just as important than physical, if not more. Games that build his self-control, focus and patience are key to him getting better when alone.

Calm- Our advice? Leave and greet your dog the way you leave and greet your parents or spouse — calm and matter of fact is perfect. Avoid long, drawn out, emotional partings because those only make matters worse for your dog. A good rule? Act the way you want your dog to act, he’ll follow your lead.  At the other end of the spectrum, skip yelling. As frustrating as this problem is, if you yell at your dog when you come home you’ll increase his stress about your coming home, making the anxiety more intense. Prevention is key, not punishment.

Lastly, keep your routine the same seven days a week. If you give your dog 100 percent attention on Sunday, expect an increase in separation issues on Monday. Do him a favor and make his life predictable.  Most dogs with separation anxiety can be helped.  Your dog can change, but you have to change first. Even though it’s the dog’s problem, only you can teach him a new way.

Separation anxiety is a complex issue and can be difficult but is usually not impossible to overcome. It takes time and understanding, and most of all, patience on your part. You may become frustrated during the training process because you’re working with a new ‘normal’, both for you and your dog. Expect the frustration, and work through it. You are your dog’s best hope. If it is separation anxiety, he cannot overcome this by himself and he will not get better over time. He does not have control over his fear – it really is bigger than he is.

 

Separation Anxiety In Dogs

22 Jan

Separation Anxiety In Dogs

Posted 01/22/2011 by mononanimalhospital in Uncategorized. Leave a Comment

Dogs Separation Anxiety – Common Symptoms and Treatment

One of the greatest joys of dog ownership is the tight bond we experience and encourage with our dogs. However, if your dog becomes too reliant or dependent on you, dog separation anxiety can occur when you and your dog are apart.

Separation anxiety in dogs is an enormous problem for around 10% of all puppies and older dogs. Somewhat ironically, problems related to separation anxiety are the major cause for dogs ending up in animal shelters.

Look At It From Your Dog’s Perspective

To your dog you are the most important thing in his/her world. Dogs are pack animals that are very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. Your dog would spend every bit of his life with you if he could. So it’s only natural that when you go out, your dog experiences varying degrees of distress or anxiety. He becomes confused, doesn’t know where you are going, why he can’t be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When the two of you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack – which is you.

Punishment is NEVER the answer to solving Separation Anxiety in dogs!

Does Your Dog Suffer From Separation Anxiety?

There’s every chance your dog is suffering from a separation anxiety disorder rather than another dog behavior problem if:

1. Your dog gets really worked up and anxious when you are preparing to leave the house. Actions such as picking up your car keys or putting on your coat can be enough to trigger the behavior.


2. Your dog engages in inappropriate behavior only when you are separated. I expand on this topic further down the page, but behavior such as urinating inside, excessive barking, and destructive behavior are common symptoms of canine separation anxiety.


3. Your dog follows you everywhere you go and immediately becomes distressed if he can’t be near you.


4. When you arrive home your dog is over the top with his greeting and takes a while to calm down.

Why Do Dogs Experience Separation Anxiety?

There are many theories on this one. In some cases the cause or trigger can be pinpointed to a particular event, but often there appears to be no explanation for the dog separation anxiety to commence. What I can say is that separation anxiety in dogs regularly occurs:

1. Straight after a change in routine. Such as your work hours changing or a family member leaving home. Remember dogs are creatures of habit and any changes can be very unsettling and confusing to them.


2. If you have been on vacation or unemployed for some time and have been spending heaps of time with your dog. As a result of this when you go back to work your dog becomes anxious and distressed.


3. Unfortunately dogs rescued from animal shelters contribute a highly disproportionate number of dog separation anxiety cases.


4. After your dog experiences a traumatic event while on his own. If a thunderstorm lashes your home while your dog is alone, this can trigger separation anxiety in the future – your dog will associate your absence with the traumatic event.


5. If your dog is rarely left alone and becomes overly reliant on his human family – Golden Retrievers are very susceptible to this type of separation anxiety in dogs.


6. When you move to a new neighborhood.

How Does Separation Anxiety In Dogs Manifest?

Barking

Whining

Licking

Destructive Behavior

Chewing

Howling

Panic Attacks

Digging

Inappropriate Urination

House Soiling

Self Mutilation

Escaping

Diarrhea

Loss of Appetite

Excessive Salivation

Vomiting

Jumping through windows

Crying

Separation Anxiety Treatment

The treatment administered to your dog’s separation anxiety problem depends on its cause and severity. A mild case of separation anxiety in dogs will be easily fixed by applying some of the proven methods listed below. More severe cases will take lots of time, commitment and possibly a visit to your Vet for some medication. Commence these techniques as soon as you identify separation anxiety to be the problem.

The golden rule is that you must educate your dog to accept the fact that sometimes you will need to be apart from each other. The earlier you start getting your dog used to this fact, the easier it will be, for both of you.

• Ensure that your dog feels safe and comfortable when you are away from him. Provide plenty of fresh water and clean, warm bedding for your dog.


• Be sure to give your dog plenty of exercise when you are around. On-leash walks, a run at the park with other dogs and some obedience training will all ensure your dog is happy and stimulated. Importantly, it can also mean your dog will rest while you are out, instead of tearing up the garden.


• Provide some appealing dog toys to help occupy his time. Kongs stuffed with frozen treats are a favorite with many dogs.


• Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This may comfort a distressed dog – make sure it is something you don’t mind being torn up though.


• Try feeding your dog his main meal just as you are leaving the house. You can also hide part of his meal around the yard, which will give him/her something to do while you are away.


• If you often have the radio on when at home, leave it on while you are away. This can be soothing and comforting in mild cases of separation anxiety in dogs.


• Some dog owners report that buying another puppy or cat can help reduce separation anxiety. I believe that this action may reduce boredom, but won’t stop your dog from missing you when you are apart.


• Leave your dog in a safe and secure crate or kennel run. This has a twofold effect, it provides a comfortable “den like” area where your dog will feel comfortable, and it means your dog won’t be able to act out many of the problem behaviors listed above. Be sure that your dog is completely happy in this area before you go and leave him for any length of time. I’ve never crated my dogs for separation anxiety treatment purposes, but many dog trainers and owners recommend this training technique.


• Give your dog some obedience training. Teach and practice some basic obedience training commands like sit, down and stay. Be a strong leader or the “Alpha Dog” in your owner-dog relationship, your dog will respect and trust you for it. When you establish yourself as the trusted leader, your dog will respect your right to come and go as you please.


• Drop your puppy or dog off at a doggy day care center, to friends, neighbors or a family member’s home


• Don’t let your dog become too “clingy” and dependent on you every second you are together. Little by little teach your dog to be on his own when you are home. Put him in a crate, outside or just in the next room. Prove to him that it’s not a bad thing to be separated from you, give him his favorite treat in another room and leave him there for a while. When he is quiet and calm go and give him some praise, make it clear you are happy with him. You can also practice your down stay obedience training command for this purpose.


• Pay little or no attention to your dog when preparing to leave the house. Ignore him for 10 minutes and then slip out the door with no fuss. Same thing when you arrive home, just go about your business for about 10 minutes, ignore your dog. When he is calm, you can initiate some contact with him. You don’t want him to believe that his behavior (barking, whining etc.) has contributed to bringing you back home. Don’t inadvertently reward his behavior by giving a big over the top greeting every time you arrive home.

The 4 Step Program

Step 1

• Slowly teach your dog that he doesn’t always need to be close to you. Start out by ignoring his attention seeking behavior (jumping up, barking etc.) and then add some solid practice of his down and stay command. Little by little extend the time and distance you spent apart, until he is happy to be alone for up to 30 minutes. Of course, you will still spent lots of fun time together.

Step 2

• The next step is to get him used to being outside while you are inside. Again start off with very small periods apart and gradually lengthen the time over a couple of weeks.


• If you try this Separation Anxiety in dog’s treatment, make sure that you don’t just leave your dog outside to get all worked up and stressed. The trick is to start out leaving your dog out for a few seconds, then going out and reuniting before he shows any signs of separation anxiety. Give your dog a treat or dog toy to keep his mind off missing you. Only initiate contact with your dog when he is calm and quiet.

Step 3

• The next step in fixing your dog’s separation anxiety problem is to eliminate the distress caused by you getting ready to leave the house. What you can do is write a list of all the triggers that start your dog’s anxiety. Then set about desensitizing him to these triggers. For example:  put your shoes on, and not go anywhere. Put your coat on and sit down to read the paper. Pick up your car keys and just carry them around with you, jangling along as you go about your business.

Step 4

• When your dog is completely calm in situations that would have unsettled him in the past, go ahead and leave the house. At first, just step outside, shut the door and come back inside within 20 seconds – before he makes a sound. Again this is a slow process, similar to Step 2.  Then, extend the time outside the front door and then graduated to starting the car, then driving around the block before coming back inside.


• You can provide a tasty treat to your dog on your way out the door, something that he can work on for a while. A great recommendation is a frozen Kong stuffed full of peanut butter and a few liver treats.  This will eventually keep him occupied for hours.


• Remember that when you return home, don’t make a huge fuss. Come inside, get changed, pour yourself a nice hot coffee, and only then greet your calm dog.

DOGS AND SEPARATION ANXIETY

WHAT IS SEPARATION ANXIETY?

When a dog experiences anxiety upon being separated from it’s companions – in this case we will assume ‘companions’ refers to the dog’s humans. Separation anxiety is a psychological condition.

CAN SEPARATION ANXIETY BY TREATED/CURED BY DRUGS (SSRIS)?


The answer is NO! I do NOT recommend the use of anti-depressant SSRIS (i.e. Reconcile) for dogs. Reconcile is actually Prozac. Prozac/Reconcile:

• Will NOT cure separation anxiety, or any other anxiety for that matter;


• Has many and serious, including lethal side effects;


• Actually induces many of the symptoms of anxiety, and;


• Can make the anxiety a heightened and chronic condition.

To understand more about the seriously harmful effects of this SSRI drug you can read on here.

Separation Anxiety can be Summarized as Follows…

• The Root Cause of separation anxiety is insecurity;


• Provocation can be immediate or accumulated;


• The Source of the provocation is predominantly caused by inadvertent human-based influence;


• However the condition may also be triggered and/or exacerbated by a sudden traumatic event or an event in tandem with human-based influence;


• The Result of provocation without proper intervention is a destabilized physiological state - ‘an altered normal’ which when addressed properly can be reversed.

 IS SEPARATION ANXIETY EXPERIENCED BY ALL DOGS IN THE SAME WAY?

No, just as we humans react in various ways to stressors, so too do dogs. If your dog has separation anxiety he may have a very mild case of anxiety and just gets into little things like tissue boxes…or if the anxiety is more severe may destroy couches, walls, crates. Dogs with extreme anxiety can really harm themselves as they chew on things that can cut their mouths, or they may get tangled and trapped trying to escape confinement.

CAN THE BEHAVIOUR GO FROM MILD TO EXTREME?

Yes, if left untreated the behaviour can escalate over time. Depending on the dog, escalation may be slow, for others dogs it may occur rapidly.

SYMPTOMS DON’T USUALLY EXIST IN ISOLATION
Separation Anxiety is usually a symptom of a bigger issue…
- the issue for the dog is usually insecurity;
- enabled (unintentionally) by lack of leadership from the human.

Usually symptoms do not exist in isolation but are fed and supported by other symptoms. Treating an issue really requires a holistic approach. A dog usually has other symptoms, for example, exhibits nervousness, fear when encountering:
- garbage bags;
- construction vehicles;

- flags;
- loud noises, etc.;

In order to successfully eradicate the issue (insecurity), all of the symptoms must be addressed. I never allow a dog to flee or avoid something that they fear. With patience, calm confidence, respect, understanding, determination and persistence I coach and mentor the dog through each and every situation. In so doing I ensure that the dog leaves each situation it (formerly feared) with a new association – an understanding that it is safe and will not be harmed. By employing this methodology the dog learns confidence, over time insecurity fades away…and so to do the symptoms of insecurity.

HOW DOES A DOG END-UP GETTING SEPARATION ANXIETY?

Well, just like humans, every dog has their own natural pre-dispositions. Some of us are born with a greater tendency to be anxious and insecure while others are calmer – this is true for dogs as well. Just because we have that pre-disposition does not mean that it will ever come to the foreground. But, if environmental influences (such as incidents that happen to us on a regular basis or as a one-of occurrence, people, places and things that we encounter) spark our discomfort and become a stressor we can develop anxiety.

When I am explaining to my client’s how a situation or circumstance may impact their dogs, I ask them to think in human terms. That way the human can grasp the relativity of the situation with greater ease and speed

So if we think of a child…were we to leave a young child (with no experience of being left without companionship) alone in our home, most children would panic. Some would be curious about the experience and seek something to play with or get into. Then they would eventually become bored. Once boredom sets in and the novelty has worn off, they will recall the lack of companionship and become unhappy or indeed distraught.

Other children would weather the experience in complete contentment…this though would be rare.

If you plunk an adult down (alone) in a space that they are unfamiliar with…we will see the same pattern emerge. Some will become agitated and nervous, others may become bored, and some will be completely comfortable. And thus it is for dogs.

However – it can be even worse for dogs if we first wind them up with all of our human emotions, and then leave them! And then when we come back more emotion as we greet our dog in a frenzy of excitement and/or guilt at having left them alone. The human unknowingly reinforces the dog’s anxiety by making such a big deal of leaving and returning.

LET’S TAKE A LOOK AT HOW THIS CONDITION PROGRESSES…

So you go out for a few hours, or for the day leaving your dog alone in the house. Your dog may have ‘the run of the house’ or you may have shut a few doors so he can’t go everywhere.

At first your dog may be fine with this – as far as you can tell. Then one day you come home to find something chewed – nothing important just a tissue box. You think, ‘well that is odd’ or may even think ‘that is kind of cute’. The next day everything is OK. But the day after you come home to another mess. So you decide to get him some chew toys. The next day you come home and more mess and the nice chew toys are sitting just as you left them.

Well, your dog is insecure and finds that having all of that space to himself is daunting. He is unsure what to do, where to rest…how to rest without his human companions to provide structure, direction or just companionship…so he starts to feel anxious. He gets nervous…nervous energy must have an outlet…any unspent energy must have an outlet or frustration and anxiety increases.

Chewing helps him release the anxious energy. Chewing the toys is not resolving his issue – anxiety…so he moves onto another object to try to solve his dilemma. He starts to chew on the couch!

The longer you leave your dog’s condition untreated the worse it will get – exponentially so! To help your dog to feel comfortable and safe you need to reduce the space he has access to while you are gone. This will be a temporary measure until he learns to have more confidence. You can either use a crate or baby gate or dog playpen to confine him to a smaller space – what you use will depend on the dog, its size and the intensity of its anxiety. Then there are some dogs who will do anything they can to escape confinement – they will chew there way out of metal wire crates, chew through drywall – open windows, we will speak of that later.

SO NOW LETS’ TAKE A LOOK AT HOW THE CONDITION CAN BE FIXED…

STEP ONE

First of all we need to make sure you understand how to avoid enabling you dog’s anxiety. The first place to start is with you! Take a minute to read these two articles – they are short but the information in them is profound and forms the foundation for curing your dog’s anxiety…these are your first building blocks.

Sensitivity of Dogs

The Art of Greeting in Silence

So, having read those two articles you now understand that the first thing you are going to have to do is prepare yourself. You need to reset expectations, forget what has happened in the past and disengage all of your emotions. You need to view working with your dog as ‘work’. You are going to need extreme patience, you will have to strengthen your will so it is stronger than your dog’s will. You are going to have to be incredibly calm and confident. You are going to have to completely change your dog’s association with crating – it is a negative association right now.

STEP TWO

If you haven’t already done so…you need to normalize the experience of leaving and returning to your home.

When Leaving Your Home
…if you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone – your dog senses this, it can make them anxious as they feel you are not comfortable with the situation. Instead clear your mind of any emotion and calmly, confidently go out with the understanding that leaving is normal, with the expectation that your dog will relax.

…if you are always in a big rush, stressed and tense, your dog learns to associate your leaving with stress, tension…anxiety. Take a few minutes to calm yourself – this is essential! You must lead by example – be calm so your dog can be.

…direct your dog as to what you expect it to do…go lie down…and make sure you correct and follow thru if he does not. If you leave and he is barking and agitated he will stay that way. More on that later.

…if you leave and make a fuss, you teach your dog that leaving is not common place, it is instead an exception. Many people make a fuss over their dogs when they leave and when they arrive back home. This creates intense excitement and destabilizes the dog. It can also overwhelm their senses. When you go outside and your husband/boyfriend etc is inside do you go up to him and make an excited fuss? Or do you calmly, naturally just give a kiss and say I’ll be back? Well with dogs you do not even (should not even) say I’ll be back – they can feel your intent – no words required.

When Coming Back Home

No talk, no touch, no look…and do not anticipate excitement…relax, be calm and walk in with confidence…

When dog pack members great each other in their natural state they are calm and simply use their nose to sniff each other to understand where each has been. Normalizing, making common place the action of coming and going.

We humans do not think to honour the dog in our dogs and instead impose on them a human greeting. This is unfair to the dog. Dogs have a +300 million olfactory sensors in their nose, we have only 3 million. Please, when you greet your dog – honour him…no talk, no touch, no look, just let him quietly sniff you – this is like a beautiful glass of wine for your dog. Later when you have put your briefcase down and gone to the bathroom, come out and quietly touch your dog. Following this procedure normalizes the coming and going experience and removes the excitement associated with your absence…it deflates the anxiety.

So to recap Step two…DO NOT feel sorry for your dog, do not talk, do not touch…allow him the grace to just relax. If you leave in a hurry and are stressed or anxious – those are the feelings that you leave your dog with! Be calm, take a few extra minutes to ensure that when you leave you are relaxed in mind and body – this gives a very different message to your dog. THIS IS LEADING BY THE RIGHT EXAMPLE! This is coaching and mentoring your dog. THIS IS TRAINING YOU!

STEP THREE

Make sure your dog has had sufficient exercise

Before you leave make sure your dog has had enough exercise. Dogs need to expend their energy to feel relaxed and calm. You cannot expect a dog with unspent energy to be content left alone or contained in a crate if they have not first run down their energy level. Remember, dogs have two types of energy;

…their daily quota of energy, and

…if they have not had enough exercise on a regular daily basis they can have stored energy in addition to daily energy.

Just as we would find it difficult to settle down if we were revved up, so to do dogs – even more so. Unspent energy can lead to frustration and anxiety too!

STEP FOUR

If you are crating or otherwise confining your dog…

If a dog has separation anxiety a crate can be an important tool in their rehabilitation. Like people who have a phobia of large open spaces, a dog left alone in a home can feel overwhelmed. Crating is not a cure, but it can be used to support the rehabilitation process. Crating coupled with good leadership including a structured approach to coaching/mentoring the dog to navigate through all situations that it fears, etc. will help the dog become a secure, confident, well-balanced canine. Again your state of mind is very important. If you feel bad about using a crate for your dog – the dog knows and will learn to associate the crate with discomfort and unease. If you feel confident about using the crate your dog will too.

Introduce your dog to the crate in the right way

If you introduce your dog to a crate the right way – in almost all cases the dog will not fear or dislike the crate. Once a dog has found a crate to be a calm and comfortable place to be, the dog will often choose to use the crate as a place to go and rest. As long as you leave the crate door open when not in use, the dog can choose to use it when he/she pleases. When first introducing your dog to a crate, leave the door open and let your dog use it’s noise to explore the  outside and inside of the crate. You can direct your dog to lie down in the crate and relax – stay with the door open. You can feed him a treat while he is lying in the crate. Foster good associations.

Once your dog is comfortable with the idea of being in the crate, close the crate door and let him stay in it for a bit. Normalize the experience for your dog. When you go to let you dog back out of the crate, make sure he is relaxed, not excited. If he is excited just keep the door closed, be calm. Turn your body so you face sideways to the crate. Do not talk to, look at, or touch your dog. In this way you disengage and do not enable your dog’s excitement. When your dog is calm, open the door, and at your request he can come out of the crate. Do not allow him to bolt out of the crate. Use your body to block the door and when ready step aside to allow him out.

I have ten dogs in my dog pack and they all enjoy going off to lie in their crates when they feel like it. They are allowed to lie down wherever they like in the house – including on couches. Sometimes they prefer a crate. No one dog in my pack owns a crate – they all share the spaces in the house including crates. For example, when I am preparing their food, my smallest dog (a four-pound Pomeranian) will sometimes go to lie down in a large crate located in the kitchen and share the space within the crate with one of my German Shepherds or with my Australian Shepherd. There are other places in the kitchen they can ‘hang-out’, but they often choose the crate. Why do they choose the crate? The crate is a space of comfort and calm and all of the crates in my house are comfy – they are lined with dog beds and some have pillows too!

Even dogs who are capable of escaping any crate – like my dog Sarah (German Shepherd X Husky) will accept being in a crate as I have coached & mentored her in the right way. She is a wily, intelligent and resourceful canine who spent the better part of her first year as a stray – wiliness meant survival!

Make sure the crate is the right size for your dog

Make sure you get the right size crate for your dog; a dog should be able to stand up & turn around in its crate.

Never place a crate in a location that gets overly warm or where the air quality is very poor. We humans don’t appreciate such conditions neither do our dogs! Remember that cold air stays close to the ground. If your dog is not great with cold temperatures make sure the crate is not located where there is a cold draft.

STEP FIVE – for those with dogs who try to escape crates/confinement

You will have to work in baby steps. You are going to have to take the time to teach your dog that the crate is a place of comfort and peace rather than dread and stress. You need to get your dog accustomed to using the crate when you are in the room. Your dog will need to learn to relax in the crate – sit and lie down. Then you build up over time the periods he spends in it – while you are home. Dogs like people shut down when they are in a state of panic. It takes great determination, presence of mind and patience to turn this around.

Prepare yourself – you need to reset expectations, forget what has happened in the past and disengage all of your emotions. If you anticipate trouble you will get trouble, if you believe in what you are doing and forget the past it helps your dog to move forward.  

Helping your dog return to a normal state (not ridden with anxiety) means that you have to think and move in a deliberately calm fashion. Your dog did not get to this state overnight so it will take time to change his state.

 
Get yourself in the right mindset and then start to work with him/her.

IS SEPARATION ANXIETY A PERMANENT CONDITION? 

No, it is very rare for a dog, who has been coached and mentored properly through this anxiety to remain anxious. Depending on your dog and the severity of their anxiety…they will eventually get over this condition and learn to normalize being alone. For some dogs it is a relatively short process – requiring weeks or several months. For other dogs the path to normalization can take a year or more. My Australian Shepherd Tasha had a bad case of separation anxiety…curing her took around a year! 

Remember patience and calm confidence is key to success. Tasha can now be left out all day free in the house with my other dogs. At one time she would pee and poo in the house, chew furniture, shred whatever she could get her teeth into!. 

You can read her Bio if you are curious…Tasha, my Australian Shepherd
 

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Related Articles

For related and additional articles on dog and cat, care, health, training, nutrition and animal advocacy go to thispage.

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Notes:

Please note – this article is for information purposes and is not a substitute for an in-person Session with me. When working with dogs I use many techniques – it is important to note that this article may touch on one or several techniques but not all. I select the technique that I use for a particular dog based on my observations of the dog and an intuitive, instinctive assessment of that dog’s and its human’s individual requirements. For example when I am working with a dog that is hyper sensitive and very physically reactive I will not use voice or touch. I use a lot of therapeutic touch on some dogs, others require the use of herding techniques and so on. Each and every technique must be combined with:

• 
  an understanding of the real intelligence, sensitivity and capability of dogs;
  


• 
  an understanding of how to read a dog’s face and a dog’s overall body language;
  


• 
  an understanding of the full spectrum of ways that humans communicate and dogs communicate; 
  


• 
  understanding and recognition of the individual that is each dog – no two dogs are the same…taking a ‘cookie cutter’ approach to techniques is not the way to work with a dog;
  


• 
  a complete recognition and understanding of all the elements that feed a behaviour and create an issue:
  




• 
   the vast majority of people can only identify one or two elements…which vastly inhibits the ability to resolve behavior issues;
  


• 
  behaviours do not exist in isolation – there are always many elements that feed a single behaviour, there all always multiple behaviours that create a behavioral issue;
  




• 
  self-restraint and discipline on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
  


• 
  sensitivity, awareness, intuition, instinct and timing on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
  




• 
  to understand, connect with and adapt quickly and effectively to a dog’s learning requirements you must be able to employ the same tools a dog uses – acute sensitivity, awareness, instinct, intuition and timing;
  




• 
  kindness, endurance, consideration, patience, persistence, perspective, the ability and know how to let the past go, the ability to set realistic expectations at any one point in time;
  


• 
  the creation of structure, rules, boundaries and limitations for each situation at the macro and micro level;
  


• 
  understanding of all the elements that make up an instruction and direction to a dog…there are multiple steps involved in an instruction – not just one!
  


• 
  absolute honesty – if you cannot be honest with yourself you will not be able to communicate clearly with a dog.
  

These are just some of the techniques that I teach my clients – it is a holistic, all-encompassing approach. If you are missing any one element of the above mentioned your success rate will be affected to one degree or another in implementing the techniques offered in the article presented above.