Anxious Dogs on Halloween | Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Hi anxious dogs (and their owners too!)
We just got back from a walk and boy is it ever spooky out! There are lots of kids and adults running around in scary costumes and firecrackers going off. As an anxious dog I found it very stressful! Here are some tips that my owners use to help me and my sister stay calm and happy when things spook us out, especially around Halloween:

Tip One: Always Stay Happy!
When your dog gets scared by a person wearing a costume that looks weird to them or a loud firecracker always use an upbeat and happy voice and maybe even try playing with your dog. Us anxious dogs really appreciate that when we are stressed… NEVER yell at us because then you are confirming that there really is something to be afraid of!

Tip Two: Avoidance and Space are Key.
Most of us anxious dogs (especially me!) are very proximity sensitive, meaning we are very aware of how close scary things get to us and get even more scared and anxious when they get closer. Be aware of this and give your anxious dog space. If you see a trick-or-treater coming down the street cross the road so we anxious dogs don’t have to feel stressed about the approach of scary things we do not recognize!

Tip Three: Keep Us Away from Ding-dong SCARY COSTUMES!!
All anxious dogs will be very thankful if you keep us away from the door when all the trick-or-treaters come knocking. Keep us in a safe place ideally where we can not hear the doorbell. This will help keep our stress levels down so we can be calm and happy dogs.

Tip Four: Distractions are Key
In any situation but especially if you are leaving us home alone and we have separation anxiety be sure to leave us with something to do. A frozen Kong works best filled with your anxious dog’s favorite food and treats! Also if people in your neighborhood like to light off firecracker be sure to put some classical music on to drown out the noise and keep us calm. Speaking of calm don’t forget to plug in the DAP Dog Appeasing Pheromone Electric Diffuser and give us Rescue Remedy! And definitely DON NOT let us look out the window at all of the ghosts and goblins walking by the house!

I hope this helps you all! Have a safe and happy Halloween!

Your pal,
Manchego the Anxious Dog

What Is Separation Anxiety?

Many dogs experience separation anxiety when left alone. They will often whine, bark, cry, howl, chew, dig and scratch at the door, soil the house or just destroy your home and your backyard. We often unintentionally train our dogs to behave this way because whenever they throw this kind of tantrum when we leave, we quickly come back to reassure them, give them attention or even give them a treat. If you do this, your dog will soon learn that he can control you with emotional guilt trips.

Long, drawn-out farewells can create separation anxiety problems as well, by first exciting your dog and then making the isolation more obvious when you are gone. Just when he gets all worked up and ready to play, suddenly you disappear on him. With all this energy, your dog will either try his best to get you to come back or he will have to vent his energy in some other way.

Since he cannot invite his other doggie friends over, he does the doggy thing – like chew, dig, bark and eliminate all over your home.

Perhaps it is not separation anxiety after all! We often think our dog is destructive because he is angry and spiteful that we left him, but he could actually be just trying to have some fun since there is nothing else to do. He is bored out of his head. He may be relieved to be able to do those things he normally cannot do when you are home. He may be thinking, “Thank GOD my owner is finally leaving! Now I can chase the cat, get into the trash, and bark at the neighbors. They never let me do these things when they are home.”

Some dogs with separation anxiety are stressed, nervous and insecure when they are left alone. They express this nervous energy in typical dog fashion – chewing, digging, barking, and house soiling.

To prevent separation anxiety, dogs need to feel happy, secure, and comfortable when you are away. It’s important to give them things to do while you are gone. You want to mentally stimulate their brain. Provide your dog with enough toys such as a Kong stuffed with treats, bully sticks or a sand box in the backyard. Often another companion pet can help alleviate this type of boredom.

Another way to prevent separation anxiety is to set aside scheduled time periods to give your dog undivided attention, play and exercise. A happy, well-exercised dog will usually sleep contentedly during the day while you are gone. Be sure that one of the scheduled play sessions occurs before you must leave for the day. Give your dog a chance to settle down before you leave and do not make a big deal of your leaving – just leave without any emotion or commotion.

If your dog is already experiencing separation anxiety, then gradually accustom him to your leaving. Practice leaving and returning several times a day until your dog gets used to your leaving and realizes that you are not abandoning him forever. Gradually leave for longer and longer periods of time, but start out by leaving for just 5 minutes and returning again.

Kimberly Dillon

Confident K9 Education

La Bella Pooch

8001 17th Ave

Brooklyn, NY 11214

Phone: (347)312-2856

Email: Dogtrainingny@aol.com

http://www.dogtrainingschoolny.com/

Secrets to Dog Training a Thumbnail Sketch: Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly. Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety. There are a number of contributing causes to the condition: – Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales – A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick. – Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog. – Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content. The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door. Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do: – Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better. – Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure. – When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company. – If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. – Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her. Do not: – Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset! If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/index.php?aff=joemarket2&type=separationanxiety

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Part 5Behavior Modification for Departures

The intention of this blog is to give you some training ideas for a dog with separation anxiety.

Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately this often exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore the dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which she is fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior.

You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety.

Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors you leave and return can also mix up cues for your dog.

When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on).

Another technique:

The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months.

Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety.

Ian Dunbar Seminar: Problems in the Adult Dog

Ian’s message on Friday was simple: you can predict puppy problems, and if you start young enough, you can prevent them, too. Ian believes that after 12 weeks of age, it becomes much, much more difficult, and once a dog reaches adolescence at roughly 18 weeks, it’s almost impossible. Despite this focus on preventing problems, he did talk a bit about problems adult dogs have, and gave a very brief overview on working with those issues.

One of the most interesting things was that he categorized dog problems in two categories: behavior problems, and temperament problems. Behavior problems are things that the dogs do, and include house soiling, chewing on inappropriate items, digging, and barking excessively. Temperament problems are things the dogs have, and include fear, aggression, hyperactivity and shyness. Ian says that even though behavior problems are far easier to fix through training, people are far more likely to surrender these dogs. Conversely, despite the fact that temperament problems are incredibly difficult to change, people are far more willing to live with dogs that have them.

Although I was intrigued by this distinction, I’m not sure how I feel about it. On one hand, I agree that many behavior problems are due to a simple lack of training. On the other, it seems difficult to parse out which category a dog fits in, especially since temperament problems must be expressed through behavior. While Ian acknowledged that temperament may affect a dog’s behavior, a focus on behavior alone seems to oversimplify what could be a complex issue.

For example, Ian believes that separation anxiety is more likely to be an owner-absent problem instead of true anxiety. He explained that owner-absent problems happen because of excessive punishment for naughty-but-fun behaviors like barking a lot or chewing on things without instructing the dog what he ought to do instead. Since dogs are smart and want to avoid punishment, they wait to have fun until after their owner leaves, which leads the owner to believe that the problem is separation anxiety.

It does seem like people throw the term “separation anxiety” around pretty casually, and I’ve certainly run across people attributing anxiety to a dog that simply doesn’t know what is expected of him. Even so, that doesn’t negate the fact that there are dogs who are truly anxious, and I felt like Ian minimized this.

I had a similar reaction when he discussed compulsivity and hyperactivity in dogs. Ian said that he thinks that true OCDs or ADHDs are extremely rare in dogs, and that people use these terms to label their dogs as an excuse not to train them. He made treatment sound very simple by recommending that people reward the cessation of the unwanted behavior. The dog will then choose to disengage from the obsessive or hyper behavior in order to receive the reward, and the duration will reduce as a result.

I cannot agree with this. Maisy has some obsessive tendencies, and I do not believe it is possible for her to disengage from light-chasing behavior unless the stimulus is removed. For example, even though Maisy hates swimming, I once saw her jump off a dock to chase the light glinting on the lake’s waves. I very much had the impression that she wasn’t thinking: her entire demeanor changed before she jumped. She became frantic and seemed out of control. I don’t think she chose to jump. I think her brain forced her to.

Ian also recommended redirecting obsessive behaviors to more acceptable behaviors, such as repetitively licking or chewing on a Kong. He said this not only reinforces lying down quietly, but that it also allows the dog to engage in a more appropriate behavior while still getting the endorphin release that comes with compulsive behaviors. But I don’t see how this solves the problem. An obsessive behavior is a problem because it interferes with the dog’s ability to engage in normal life activities. Redirecting the focus of the obsessive behavior does not change this.

And then, there’s the topic of aggression. Ian actually said quite a bit about aggression, so I’ll cover it in more depth another day, but basically, he said there’s absolutely no excuse for fear-based aggression or dog-to-human aggression, with the implication that it is due to a lack of socialization in puppyhood. He acknowledged that there may be an excuse for dog-dog aggression, and I assume he meant that it may be genetic.

I’m mostly okay with this, but I became concerned when he talked about treatment. He said that he can jump start the process by doing “a bit of flooding” in a growl class. I’m not sure what he meant by flooding, but that statement set off alarm bells for me. He went on to say that most of the time he can have dogs off-leash and interacting in a growl class within 45 minutes! While I understand that leashes can contribute to the problem, he made it sound like it’s much easier to fix than it really is. I also have to wonder if the “bit of flooding” resulted in shut down dogs, which is why he was able to get them off leash so easily.

All of this is really captures the problems I had with the seminar as a whole. Ian’s clearly a very smart man, has had a great deal of experience, and has lots to offer dog owners. I respect him a great deal, and think he’s done a lot for the field of dog training. Despite that, his way of lecturing utilized stories and examples that, while engaging, resulted in gross oversimplifications and even seeming contradictions. For example, later on, in order to prove his point that it’s better to spend the time socializing puppies, he said that rehabbing an aggressive dog takes a very long time. This seems to be at odds with the idea that he can have dogs off-leash so quickly in his growl classes.

I know that his focus is the average pet owner, and as a result, he speaks simply in order to reach them. Even so, I would have greatly preferred more a more in-depth and critical analysis of the issues he brought up, especially since I think he had a lot of very good, valid points to make. Unfortunately, he made them so simply that I’m afraid he undermined his own message.

Is it Separation Anxiety, or Something Else?

By Linda Cole

We all know what separation anxiety is. A dog just can’t stand being away from the people he loves. Left alone, the dog might whine, howl or bark all day which isn’t good if you live in an apartment. He may also destroy things in the home or scratch up the doors and windows. He gets all worked up and so do the neighbors. But, there could be something else going on that has nothing to do with a dog missing his owner.

Separation anxiety has become a sort of catch-all for behavioral problems. But it could also be boredom or a disease. No one knows why some dogs seem to miss their owner more than others. Some become anxious even with the owner at home but in a different room. Destructive chewing, howling or constant barking, drooling and doing their business inside are all symptoms of separation anxiety. Some dogs become so worked up they chew on themselves, causing self inflicted injuries. A mild case can be dealt with easily whereas a more severe case may require medication and/or working with an animal behavioral expert to help solve the dog’s anxiety.

A bored pet can be as destructive as one who misses his owner, but the two problems are quite different. Boredom can be solved with exercise before you leave the house and chew toys stuffed with dog treats. But before you can solve the mystery of whether your dog is destroying your couch because he’s bored or because he’s experiencing separation anxiety, you need to determine which problem you are dealing with. Discussing the issue with your vet can help.

There are medical reasons why your dog may be exhibiting what appears to be separation anxiety. Cushing’s disease, seizures, diabetes, renal disease, gastrointestinal problems or cystitis could be the problem. A fear of thunderstorms that increases when you are gone can upset some dogs enough that they howl or chew to help relieve their fear. Cognitive dysfunction, needing to go outside, marking their territory, a pup who is teething and not being completely housebroken can all be symptoms that you should have your dog checked out by a vet or an animal behaviorist, or spend extra time working on housebreaking and basic training.

Separation anxiety can begin at any age and for a variety of reasons. If you’ve moved into a new home, your dog may not feel as comfortable in his new surroundings. Separation anxiety can occur is you adopt a new dog who isn’t accustomed to you, their new environment or a new routine. It might manifest if your work schedule changes and you don’t have as much time to spend exercising and playing with your dog.

Other causes of separation anxiety include: a new baby in the home; new people living in your home; other changes in your living arrangements; a death in the family which can be a human or another pet. Separation anxiety might occur if your dog had an extended stay in a kennel or at the vet, or if you’ve adopted a new puppy or kitten. Your dog needs to know he hasn’t lost your love, so any time there’s a change, it’s important to reassure him he’s still your buddy. Dogs feel most comfortable and secure when their routine is maintained from day to day. Before making changes that are in your control, talk to your vet for recommendations on how to best implement the change so your dog doesn’t feel threatened. Changes you can’t control, like a death, may need to be dealt with by an expert if your dog continues to grieve.

Don’t assume your dog has separation anxiety just because it’s an easy explanation for why your dog is misbehaving. Any of the diseases mentioned above, boredom or lack of proper training could be the culprit. If you’re thinking about using a crate to help keep your dog from destroying the house while you’re gone, discuss your intentions with your vet before doing so. A dog with separation anxiety should never be put in a crate. It will only cause him more stress to be confined in a small area.

The more we learn about dogs, the more we understand how intertwined our lives are. Separation anxiety can be dealt with as long as that’s the problem. It’s always a good idea to have your vet give your dog a checkup just to make sure it’s separation anxiety and not something else.

Read more articles by Linda Cole

Dog Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:
- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales
- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.
- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.
- Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do:

- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.
- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure. – When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.
- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. – Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not:
- Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset! If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors.

All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: www.kingdomofpets.com

Separation Anxiety: Could it be in the genes?

I read a very interesting article this morning. It wasn’t actually about canine separation, but about separation anxiety in children. It seems that the gene GTF21, located on human chromosome 7, can have quite the effect on personality. People who are missing part of it have a condition called Williams syndrome and are “generally extra social.” (I love that there’s a “syndrome” attached to being extra social; is there one attached to being extra perky? My husband would pay big money to be able to medicate me for that one in the mornings.) Those with extra copies of a certain part of the gene can go in the other direction, having social and other types of anxiety. According to the article, roughly 26% of kids having an extra copy of the region containing GTF21 have been diagnosed by a doctor as having separation anxiety.

In mice that were genetically engineered to have a duplicate copy or two of GTF21 squeaked out ultrasonic distress calls to their mothers nearly twice as much as those with normal amounts of GTF21. And mice who had been engineered to be missing a copy of the gene were less vocal. As the article states, “This is the first study to show that some forms of anxiety may be linked to added or subtracted genes.”

When I was writing Don’t Leave Me: Step by Step Help for Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety, I thought about the possible genetic link quite a bit. I did list genetics as a possible cause, although finding research studies on the topic was nearly impossible. Author James Serpell states that “selectively breeding increasingly affectionate, socially dependent, and infantilized dogs may concomitantly select for excessive attachment to owners and intolerance to being alone.” This makes sense. And perhaps it’s even possible that in selecting for those traits, those GTF21 areas are being duplicated. We see the results of genetic selection in the temperament of the puppies we produce, but the truth is that we don’t know enough about the actual mechanism.

Of course separation anxiety can have many causes. Some are attributable to humans, such as bringing a dog home, spending tons of time with him, then leaving to go back to a regular work schedule. But what if separation anxiety is also found to have a definite genetic link? Is there a way to selectively turn off those extra areas of GTF21 so that separation issues could be lessened? Could we eliminate the excess GTF21 from breeding lines? Or will there be some sort of medication that could help by targeting that specific gene? Or, as Hilary Lane, who was kind enough to alert me to this article, says, “What if it backfires? If these dogs have the known genetics, will some euthanize them, thinking there is no way to solve the issue?” I certainly hope that wouldn’t be the case. After all, there are genetic components to fear issues, and to aggression issues as well. But even when we encounter dogs whose blueprint includes them, we can still make progress behaviorally. At this point there is no way of determining with certainty what caused a dog’s separation issues. But just as with other possibly genetic-based problems, we can still offer help and make life for that dog and owner a lot less stressful.

This entry was posted on Monday, November 21st, 2011 at 5:00 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

5 Ways to Ease Separation Anxiety

I was just visiting back home, and enjoyed spending time not only with friends and family, but also their dogs. It was interesting to see the different personalities, and how their different lifestyles affected their pets. Just like I recognize how my pampering has made my dog Kelly, uh…a bit spoiled. (Okay, so we’ll work on that!)

My brother’s dog, Lawrence, loves company. This big lab/akita/? mix welcomes anyone into his home. But try to leave–forget it! The minute you head for the front door, Lawrence starts barking frantically. After observing this behavior a few times, I could see that Lawrence actually started to get anxious the moment we got up and moved to say goodbye. It seems he becomes nervous when people leave, fearing being left home alone.

Separation anxiety is a common problem among dogs. Helping an anxious dog takes consistent work. Depending on the degree of the problem, you may need to consult with your veterinarian or a dog behaviorist. Here are a few tips to try to see how your dog responds. Not everything will work for every dog. Try to be aware of what sets your dog off, and what helps him feel secure.

Don’t Make a Fuss- If you hug and kiss your dog whenever you leave, and say “Oh, poor baby, you have to stay home all alone,” your dog is likely to pick up on your anxiousness. Try to get out the door without the fanfare, even if you’re feeling guilty for leaving your dog alone.

Change Your Routine- Maybe there’s something about your present routine that isn’t working. If getting ready and out the door in the morning is a busy and stressful time, your dog will sense that. Try setting out clothes or packing lunches the night before, or getting up a few minutes earlier, and see if the stress level reduces–for everyone.

Provide a Lovey- Before you leave, be sure you’ve given your dog a security object. An old t-shirt maybe, with your scent on it. This may help her feel you’re close.

Distract- If your dog loves to play, use that to your advantage. Toss him an engaging toy just before you leave. Keep the toys fresh and fun by rotating the supply.

Practice- Consider a helpful routine for your departure. Put your dog on a down somewhere out of view of the door. Spend a few moments calmly giving him attention. Give him a toy or a carrot to chew on. I wouldn’t command your dog to “Stay” because you won’t be home to release him from the stay. If he follows you to the door (and he will!) just calmly continue your routine. Practice the same calm routine every day and it may become familiar and comforting to your dog.

Separation anxiety is difficult to get over, but when both you and your dog feel secure, the process will become easier. Good luck. You can do it!

Battling Separation Anxiety

Our eldest male Husky has the weirdest case of separation anxiety. He seems to be okay with me leaving, but it isn’t okay when I bring one of the other two dogs with me. He is a whiner. A WHINER!

I’ve read about dogs getting all worked up when their owner is getting ready to leave. Just Google “correcting separation anxiety in dogs” and you’ll get a ton of sites giving you all the possibilities why anxious dogs do what they do. I have yet to find the proper query to get a solution to my concern though.

Most articles will help you figure out what you are doing to cause all the anxiety. But what do you do when your routine isn’t the cause of the problem? Here’s what goes down:

• Aldo, the dog in question, is the calmest among the three when it comes to putting his collar and leash on. That means he’s only calm when he is part of the walk.


• I try to walk them together as much as I can but there are too many vehicles in this area that it get’s impossible to walk continuously with two natural pullers who forget all that they’ve learned when a cat passes by.


• I take him out for a walk first before the others (when I don’t walk them together) so he gets tired by the time I need to walk the other two. But somehow, no matter how tired he is, he still has enough energy to sound like a never-ending siren when I prep Aluna (our other husky) for a walk. 


• I wait for both Aluna and Aldo to calm down before I put Aluna’s collar and leash on. I also wait for the both of them to mellow down before we start walking to our gate.


• Once everything is quiet, I do not look back. I make Aluna sit while opening the gate. Within a few seconds you’ll get an alarm system that is Aldo’s whines. 


• I let Aluna stay where we are and we wait for Aldo to calm down and quite frankly, to shut up. Let me tell you… it goes on FOREVER. Neighbors have been calling me out. I’m too ashamed to let them hear his cries because it sounds like I’m slaughtering him. Oh, if I had a recording, you would know exactly what I mean.


• I give him a good 30 minutes to cry it all out before we move out. Unfortunately, he does not stop. He may pause for a few seconds, but his cries are longer.Believe me.


• This is where my “let him cry it out” training eventually has to stop because I usually get in trouble with the neighbors. I don’t want them to ask authorities to get my eldest so we end up just closing the gate and going back inside. Poor Aluna never gets her own walk time not unless I take Aldo with us. That entails going out either very early in the morning or very late at night. No cars = easy walks.

Heres what I posted on Facebook so you get the idea…

Just me standing in front of our open gate = no reactionMe holding their leash while in front of our open gate = no reactionMe with Aluna in front of our open gate = batshit crazy freaking whines

With that said, I am going to try and tackle this in my own way. I may try a few things I’ve read and try to mix things up a bit. I hope the neighbors will tolerate his cries for the first few times (I bet they will be loud). If anyone who’s reading this is encountering the same problem, please let me know what you have done or what you are doing to correct this behavior. Also, if you can let Cesar Millan come to the Philippines and meet our dog, that would be awesome too.

Separation Anxiety

What is separation anxiety?

It is a behavior that manifests itself as visible stress upon departure of a dog’s person. The anxiety can vary from mild to severe. Separation anxiety is preventable and responds well when treated.

What causes separation anxiety?

By nature, dogs are social animals – they don’t like being alone. Many dogs who are in stable, structured homes will never suffer from separation anxiety, even if their people go off to work every day. In some dogs, however, being alone for many hours a day causes undue stress, boredom, and… anxiety. In turn, they look for things to do.

Are there triggers for Separation Anxiety?

Here are some circumstances that may result in separation anxiety:

• A new home (a move for the dog to a new family)

• A change in the amount of time you are absent

• A move to a different house (with the same family)

• The death of a family member (human or companion dog)

• Time spent away from you

What are the signs of separation anxiety?

If you are making preparations to leave, the dog may follow you from room to room. Other signs are pacing, excessive salivating, vomiting, barking, howling or whining. During your absence, your dog may engage in destructive behavior, often directed at the exits (windows and doors) or clothing or other items that have your scent. An otherwise house-trained dog may eliminate inappropriately. In severe cases, the dog may have a panic attack and hurt herself by breaking through windows or attempting to get out of her crate.
As always, any change in your dogs behavior warrants a visit to the veterinarian to check your dog’s health.

Dog Anxiety

√ Separation Anxiety in Dogs | Doglistener – Stan Rawlinson …
Separation in Dogs accounts for approximately 15 of all behavioural cases here is how to work your way through the problem.

Canine Anxiety – America Against Breed Specific Legislation
However, there are things you can do to help a dog with separation anxiety and things you should avoid doing. Plan Your Exit When it is time to …

Dog Anxiety Medications
Learn about the three most popular dog anxiety medications, clomipramine, fluoxetine and alprazolam. Learn about uses, risks and side effects.

Dog Separation Anxiety
Dog separation anxiety is a real medical condition that affects many dogs. If your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, learn proven techniques to help your dog …

Antianxiety Medication for Dogs – Buzzle
Antianxiety medication for dogs is used by veterinarians to cure the anxiety symptoms displayed by dogs either due to separation from the owner, loud noises …

Canine Anxiety Symptoms – Veterinary Medical Information for Dogs …
Canine anxiety can manifest in many ways and may get worse over time if not treated. If your dog is showing signs of anxiety, determine the cause and work on a …

A Guide to Dog Anxiety Medication – VetInfo
Most vets suggest mixing behavior training with a dog anxiety medication. While the medications do work well, some have side effects and should be used in moderation.

Thundershirt | The Best Dog Anxiety Treatment
The Best Dog Anxiety Treatment … HOW IT WORKS » Thundershirt uses gentle, constant pressure to calm your dog, effectively aiding anxiety, fearfulness, barking and …

Dog Anxiety | VetDepot – Pet Meds | Discount Pet Medications …
Canine anxiety is a feeling of nervousness, uneasiness, or apprehension for your dog. Buy dog anxiety medication today from Vet Depot, your online authority for pet meds.

Dog Anti-anxiety Medication – Vet’s Advice On Dog Anti-Anxiety …
Are there dog anti-anxiety medications? There are some dog anti-anxiety medications. The type will vary depending on the anxiety problem being treated – separation …

Noise phobia in dogs – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Dog Noise Phobia, along with Dog Noise Anxiety, are terms sometimes used by dog owners and veterinarians to describe canine fear of and the corresponding stress …

Separation Anxiety in Dogs – University of Saskatchewan
Separation Anxiety in Dogs. Linked to this article is a short video clip which shows a dog displaying several behaviours typical of separation anxiety.

Dog Anxiety Guide
Living with dog anxiety can be stressful on dog and owner. Learn how to make life more enjoyable for you and your canine best friend.

Dog anxiety problems
A lot of the behavior problems dogs have are related to problems with anxiety. Anxiety can manifest itself in several ways, ranging from destroying things with their …

Dog Anxiety – Preventing and Treating the 3 Types
Dog anxiety prevention ideally begins during puppyhood, but there are several effective techniques to improve or eliminate it in older dogs as well.

Dog Anxiety | Rescue Me Dog
Whining, clinging dogs that act nervous are, at best, a bit of a nuisance to their owners. At worst, the anxiety can develop into behaviors such as excessive

Separation Anxiety – The RSPCA West Hatch Animal Rescue Centre …
SEPARATION and ANXIETY . One frequently experienced problem with rescue dogs is anxiety when left alone. This anxiety can take the form of barking, howling, loss of …

Dog Separation Anxiety | Treatment Options
There are various ways to address separation anxiety that are both medical and non-medical in nature. The overall treatment goal is to change the dog’s behavior so …

Dogs & Separation Anxiety

Dogs are the happiest when they are with their best pal-you.  Often people treat the symptoms of separation anxiety without understanding what this causing the behavior and fixing it at the root of the problem.

This article from the Humane Society addresses ways to help you help your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit distress and behavior problems when they’re left alone. The most common behaviors include:

• Digging and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to reunite with their owners

• Destructive chewing


• Howling, barking, and whining


• Urination and defecation (even with otherwise housetrained dogs)

Is it separation anxiety?

If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

• The behavior occurs primarily when he’s left alone and typically begins soon after you leave.


• He follows you from room to room whenever you’re home.


• He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.


• The behavior occurs whether he’s left alone for short or long periods.


• He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.

What causes separation anxiety

It’s not fully understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and others don’t. But it’s important to realize that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are part of a panic response. Your dog isn’t trying to punish you for leaving him alone.

Following are some common scenarios that can trigger separation anxiety:

• A dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.


• A dog suffers a traumatic event (from his viewpoint), such as time at a shelter or boarding kennel.


• There’s a change in the family’s routine or structure or the loss of a family member or other pet.

How to treat minor separation anxiety

• Don’t make a big deal out of arrivals and departures. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes then calmly pet him.
  Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old T-shirt that you’ve slept in recently.


• Establish a safety cue—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back.


• Consider using an over-the-counter calming product that may reduce fearfulness in dogs.

How to handle a more severe problem

Use the techniques outlined above along with desensitization training. Teach your dog the sit-stay and down-stay commands using positive reinforcement. This training will help him learn that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another room.

Create a “safe place” to limit your dog’s ability to be destructive. A safe place should:

• Confine loosely rather than strictly (a room with a window and distractions rather than total isolation)


• Contain busy toys for distraction


• Have dirty laundry to lend a calming olfactory cue or other safety cues.

What to do in the meantime

It can take time for your dog to unlearn his panic response to your departures. To help you and your dog cope in the short term, consider the following interim solutions:

• Ask your veterinarian about drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug shouldn’t sedate your dog but simply reduce his overall anxiety.


• Take your dog to a doggie day care facility or kennel when you have to be away.


• Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor when you’re away.


• Take your dog to work with you, if possible.

What won’t help

• 
  Punishment. Punishment isn’t effective for treating separation anxiety and can make the situation worse. The destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety aren’t your dog’s revenge for being left alone: they’re part of a panic response.


• 
  Another dog. Getting your dog a companion usually doesn’t help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, not just the result of being alone.


• 
  Crating. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses inside a crate, and he may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape. Instead, create other kinds of “safe places” as described above.


• 
  Radio/TV noise. Leaving the radio or television on won’t help (unless the radio or TV is used as a safety cue).


• 
  Obedience training. While formal training is always a good idea, separation anxiety isn’t the result of disobedience or lack of training; therefore, it won’t help this particular issue.

The Thundershirt helps dogs with separation anxiety by gently swaddling them.  Learn more about Thundershirt.

Separation Anxiety Treatment Log Wk8

Week 8 is upon us. For those of you new to my blog, this is Vito’s progress on his separation anxiety protocol adapted from Patricia McConnell’s “I’ll be home soon.”

Day 50: 135sec-N (ate for 120), 30 (ate for 10, N for 15, ate for last 5), 30, 90-N (ate for 20), 120, 15, 5.25min, 20, 17min-N (ate for 10min), 60-N (ate for 0).

He started out very slow, not into his bones. I did a 17min trial today and he was calm for the whole time even though he wasn’t eating for the last 7min.

Day 51: 75, 195, 20-N, 30, 6.5min (ate for 50sec), 30-N, 90-N, 18.5min-N (ate for 50) 30-N.

Vito wouldn’t eat his bones, but still remained calm and lying down for 18.5min!

Day 52: 15sec, 10-N, 20-N, 10-N, 20, 45, 15-N, 90-N (ate for 60), 15, 3min-N (ate for 20), 30-N, 30-N, 40-N, 5min-N.

I decided to take it very slow today. Earlier Vito had a vet’s appointment where he had to be dropped off for 2.5hrs. Of course he was in full panic by the time I was allowed to get him He did decent though on the trial. Wouldn’t eat his bones, but looked relatively calm. Maybe just a little more uneasy than normal.

Day 53: 60-N, 20, 4.5min-N, 60-N, 20-N. I took the baby gate up, 6.5min-N, 7.5min-N (wander), 45-N, 6min-N.

I originally was going to do a normal session and plan for 20min today, but halfway through I thought I would try something. I took off the baby gate that was keeping Vito in the kitchen where the door is. For the first 6.5min trial Vito remained on his bed, I don’t even know if he knew the gate was up. On the 7.5min trial I gave Vito a dried tater which he ate and then went to drink water. Of course he then saw the gate was up and went wandering. I can’t see where he went, but I think he went to the bedroom for a bit, then came back and sat by the kitchen door. When I came in he was in the living room. He was more excited to see me when I came in and gave one little whine. On the last two trials Vito stayed on his dog bed in the kitchen. He was a bit more anxious i think as he was lying down but definitely starring at the door. I have no clue what to make of this experiment.

Day 54: 20sec, 3min-N (ate for 20), 30-N, 20min-N (ate tricky treat ball for 13.5min), 60-N.

I decided to not have the baby gate up the entire session this time, and this was amazing!!!! Vito didn’t eat his bones, but on the 20min trial he was playing with the tricky treat ball for 13.5min, the longest he ever has. After the TT he got some water and then it looked like he was looking for us. After looking this way and that, Vito went back to the kitchen and nudged the TT again. But then, he stood in the hallway for about a minute and finally decided to lie down on the living room couch! Vito didn’t even get up when I walked inside later! When I did the 1min trial after that he immediately went to the door after it closed, but again went and lied down in the living room I really feel like we’ve made a huge leap in his progress today!

Day 55: 90-N, 15, 3.75min, 10, 15, 20min-N (ate for 4min).

I had the baby gate down again today for the whole session. He stayed on his bed until 4min into the 20min trial where he stopped, eating, drank water, and then went to the living room couch and lied down the whole time! Very happy

Day 56: 20, 90-N, 3.5min, 30, 25min, 60.

Baby gate is again not up, but Vito stayed on his bed in the kitchen the entire time. He also ate a bone, a piggy twist (which previously he has shown zero interest in) the entire 25min!

Week 8 Summary:
What a great week!!!! We started out at 15min departures and ended up with 25min today! This week I also tried something new, I took down the baby gate that kept him in the kitchen by the door. At first I think he was a little anxious about it, but then I think he enjoyed it. When he’s not wanting a bone, he just goes into the living room and I come back to Vito lying calmly on the couch My goal now is to get up to 40min next week and hopefully be able to do two hours at the end of week 10!

Fear and Separation Anxiety

I think Darlin’ has some separation anxiety. I’ve had concerns about this for the last month because when I come home from shopping or going out for a while she whimpers for me. Yesterday I went to the grocery store. As soon as I get my purse Toby always runs to the front door and sits there wagging his tail looking back over his shoulder like I’m going to pick him and take him with me. Like so many other times, I tell him I’ll be right back and I tell the dogs that follow me to the door to get back. Well, I say “back”. The door becomes my space. My Eskie (Chloe) use to bolt out the door so I’ve learned to claim the space which helped control the times I had to chase Chloe through the neighborhood. She is the most challenging dog I have ever owned.

Just like the day before when I went to Pet Smart, Darlin’ followed me to the front door. That was one of the reasons I chose to walk her that night, I thought it was time she saw what was out there on the other side. I stuck my foot out and told her to get back. She practically had her nose in the door as I closed it behind me! She let out a yelp for the first time that I know of when I left the house. What followed next really surprised me! I heard someone scratching at the front door and I have never in all my years of owning dogs heard a dog scratch at my door!

I put my purse in the car and started the air conditioner. I went back inside as though I forgot something to see what was going on and to look at the door for scratches. That door is not something I care to replace because it was expensive. All of the dogs, Darlin’ included, acted like I had been gone all day and I wasn’t outside more than a minute. So I walked out again telling her to get back. I was gone less than an hour and when I returned I walked up the steps with bags in my hand. The first thing I did was look through the beveled glass to see if I could get a glimpse of the dogs waiting for me. What do I see? A brown dogs head trying to look through the glass! She was standing there on her hind legs! Not at the door, but trying to look out the glass! I’ve seen her standing at the door at night and that’s why I thought she looked like a kangaroo. I went inside and she was just as excited as the rest of the dogs, but she yelped and barked too! She was calling attention to herself because everyone else was getting attention.

This may not seem like a big deal if you are new to reading this blog, but this same dog will defecate if a stranger handles her. She did last week when I asked my husband to bring her to me. He sat her down on the couch next to me and I immediately asked “What’s that smell?” She was fine two days ago when my husband carried her home for me. She is an extremely fearful dog that is still learning to trust people.

I think one of the great things about having a pack of dogs is that they learn from each other and they have each other when people are not around. However, Darlin’ bonded with me, not the dogs. It was my intention to have her learn to trust me before the dogs. I actually read that keeping a feral dog separated from other dogs was the way to go so that the dog would learn to trust the handler first. That was easy enough considering I had my other dog’s safety in mind too. Now I’m wondering if she is too attached to me.

I have two days to help correct this situation because I’m going out of town all day on Sunday and the dogs will be alone. The dogs will have access to the backyard. No one can get in our yard and they would be crazy to try with five dogs. Besides that, our lawn maintenance guy attempted to unlock the gate once without checking to see if the dogs were out. Sam (our blue heeler) jumped up for his arm as he reached across and I have never seen a man come away from a fence so fast! We were all outside. Sam’s bark is enough to scare most people off. He’s a big baby though. If you enter through the front door he will love you and submit to you by turning over and offering his tummy. Darlin’ doesn’t stay outside with the dogs much, nor does she follow them, but I’m sure if I’m not around she’ll catch on. I can’t help but have some concerns about her scratching at the front door and I hope it will be a good day for her even though I’m not home.

I told my daughter about Darlin’s behavior yesterday. She said, “Mom, you are everything to Darlin’, she had nothing before you.” That’s true, but my hopes for her is that she learns to live as a pack member and family pet and that she doesn’t develop an unhealthy attachment to me.

I spoil my dogs, I can’t help it. Mostly with affection, then I spoil with the food and treats, toys are last on my list. Each dog has his/her own story. Chloe was born to parents that lived in the same home. I adopted her as a puppy so she has never known any hardships. She’ll be six years old soon and has terrible health problems already. Sam loved his family, but they had a baby so he had to be re-homed. Bonnie was pulled from a rabbit hutch in Missouri. I beat myself up for not pulling all the dogs, but I tried to get help. Sweet affectionate Toby was a stray that wound up urgent at a pound in Tennessee. If you knew him you would wonder like I do how that could ever happen. Darlin’, fearful, starving, abandoned, living in the woods behind a rock yard for 6 months that I know of, yet the people at the grocery store told me she had been coming there for years. That life was enough to make any dog fear people. Her past makes it easy for me to spoil her and her trusting me makes it easier for me to give her more of everything. We have both gained something through it all. I swear I must have been a sheep herder in another lifetime!

I love them all, but I can’t keep my hands off of Darlin’. I pet, pat, kiss, stroke, hug, and rub her down every second I get. I do it so much I catch the others dogs watching me and I have had momentary guilt. It doesn’t take much to realize I need to give to them all equally. Thank goodness I have two hands, though I could use a few more. Darlin’ came from nothing, she had nothing, she acted like she never had humane contact, but I know she had some contact because she’s been spayed. Her experiences must have been awful because her fears are so deep rooted. Yesterday when my husband came home she sat by my feet while I was cooking just shaking like a leaf. It’s been almost four months since she’s been here and she still has fear of my family. If I move too fast or raise my hands she becomes frightened by my actions. I told someone on Petfinder when they suggested I withhold her food until she eats from my hands that my nature is to nurture, but I don’t want to nurture an unhealthy attachment to me which may cause separation anxiety issues.

I think I’ll go shopping for a bit and give Darlin’ some time alone at home with the other dogs. I’m going to try and keep the level excitement lower. I will ignore everyone when I leave and not give anyone attention when I come back home until I put my things away.

Separation Anxiety

Dogs are very social animals that naturally do not like to be left alone, this can be troublesome for us humans.

We have to work (well most of us) or we have a life (most of us) and sometimes our lives don’t revolve around the dog, we need time away. But what happens when that time away becomes a pain in the butt? Sometimes we start to regret getting the dog in the first place if you knew this would happen, we get frustrated because you can’t just waive a wand and have your dog be okay with you leaving and fights can start between a family.

When working with any rescue dog, this is one of the main problems I run into, reason being: dogs that have been abandoned by their owners, then switched to a new environment with new people, then again and again. Some rescues are passed around 7 or 8 times before finding a forever home. No wonder they have separation anxiety! Everytime they possibly became comfortable, they were thrown to the next person and so on. Unfortunately it is sometimes unavoidable and dogs are passed from person to person and the side effects on the dogs’ emotional state can be catastrophic for him or her resulting in euthanasia.

Separation Anxiety can be caused by the following

• Traumatic events in a young dog’s life may also increase the likelihood of the development of very strong attachments. These events include; early separation from the mother dog, deprivation of attachment early in life (puppies kept in pet shops or animal shelters), a sudden change of environment (new home, stay at a kennel), a change in owner’s lifestyle which results in a sudden end to constant contact with the animal, a long-term or permanent absence of a family member.

Preventative Training

Puppies - Training should be started the day you get your puppy to ensure the dog is conditioned to being left alone and it’s not all that bad, the owner always comes back.

TAKE TIME OFF WORK when you get your puppy or rescue. This I can’t stress enough, so many people get a puppy then leave it alone at home for 8-10 hours the next day and then for the entire week.

Think about it from the pups perspective; was taken away from it’s home with his or her littermates, driven in a weird car then put in a new environment, fell asleep, woke up and saw a couple people then everybody left and the pup is in a brand new place, scared and no one around, what happens…..he panics and the cycle begins.

Week 1

• Do not leave your puppy alone longer then 4 hours at a time -this should be until he’s 4 months old, then you can slowly start increasing time 1 hour per month. (6 months = 6 hours) Maximum a dog should be left alone for is 7-8 hours without access to outside for bathroom break.


• Condition the dog to you leaving – place a KONG filled with goodies on the ground and walk out the door for a moment and come back in. If the pup is eating the KONG walk out again for a minute and come back in. Repeat increasing the time slowly. By the end of the week you should be able to leave the pup alone for 4 hours without a peep.

Week 2

• Tire your pup out before planning to leave. Go for a short walk or play a game until the pup is looking tired. Then give him a KONG filled with yummy stuff and leave for a couple minutes, come back in to check how he or she is doing, if they’re fine, leave for good this time.

After week 2 your dog should be well adjusted into his or her new home and comfortable being left alone.

Adopted - If you have a rescue, you need to #1 determine if the dog has any separation issues. 

Testing for separation anxiety : This can be done by leaving the dog alone for 15 mins (after you’ve let the dog settle in for a day or two), leave as you normally would, grab your keys and coat and walk out the door, lock it and move out of sight and BE QUIET. (If you have a camera, place it filming the door or living space where you left the dog). If the dog barks, ignore him or her take note of how long the barking continues for, go back in after 15 minutes as long as the dog is NOT barking, howling, whining, scratching ect. If the dog doesn’t stop, call the house (this should interrupt the behaviour) then walk in Next is to figure out a treatment plan with your local Dog Behaviourist or Dog Behaviour Consultant.
If the dog is fine, follow the same preventative treatment for puppies.

Training

This involves slow systematic desensitization, changing the emotional reponse of your dog when you leave, which takes time. Separation anxiety, realistically is very hard to treat because not everybody has the time or freedom from work needed to successfully treat it.

However there are options if you have a busy schedule.
1) Hire a dog walker or friend to come by during the day and follow the same training protocol when they leave. (this helps your dog have 2 or more chances to learn that when someone leaves, they don’t leave for a long period of time).
2) Bring your dog to a reputable doggy daycare for the days you can’t train with your dog

When you manage the problem (doggy daycare, dog walker) paired with training (systematic desensitization – leaving at short periods at a time) separation anxiety can be quite treatable.

Separation Anxiety in Dogs Can Be Cured...

Dogs are social animals, and they naturally bond with family members in their household. When separated from their family, certain dogs can become extremely stressed. These dogs act out as a result of the fear and anxiety triggered by their separation from you.  Many dog owners mistakenly assume these behaviors are a result of spite, disobedience or poor training. Your dog is not a bad dog. His bad behavior may be the result of separation anxiety.

Let’s start with what separation anxiety actually is.  Your dog becomes so stressed in your absence (sometimes even if you simply go into the next room where he can’t see you) that he cannot cope with being alone.  He then tries to do whatever methods he thinks will get you to come back and to work through his stress — barking, destruction by digging and/or chewing, peeing and pooping, or a combination of some or even all of these. Ultimately, he is having a panic attack.  It’s a common problem with adopted dogs, retrievers, and small dogs.  However, other dogs can also suffer — and they do suffer — from separation anxiety, too.

Please realize that he is not doing this in retaliation for your leaving. TREATING A SYMPTOM (barking, destruction, house soiling) DOESN’T WORK because it doesn’t get to the cause of the problem — it’s comparable to putting a bandage on a broken leg because that will stop the bleeding, but it sure doesn’t mend the broken leg! Punishing him doesn’t work because he literally can’t help himself.  It’s as if he was gasping for air and he’s trying to do everything he can to get more oxygen. You may have read or tried several “solutions” to alleviate separation anxiety or even worked with other trainers, yet your dog still is suffering. Cookie cutter approaches and quick fixes do not work! So the first thing we need to do is to see whether it truly IS separation anxiety — there could be other reasons for your dog’s behavior.

Here are some things to think about:

*There is a difference between SEPARATION anxiety – “I’m so stressed when you’re not here that I’m panicking” – and SEPARATING anxiety – “I’m in control here. You can’t leave because then I won’t have anyone to boss around.”

*There’s also a difference in degree – mild, moderate, or severe.

*Your dog could simply be bored – “No one’s here and there’s nothing to do, so I’ll just tear up the place because it’s fun.”

*He could be calling you home – “I’m just going to bark and bark because I don’t want you to forget where you live, and you’ve always come back when I’ve barked before.” Alternatively – “I’ll just pee and poop because then you can follow your nose home because you know what I smell like.”

*Maybe he’s sick and you haven’t noticed – “I really don’t feel good and I need someone to comfort me.”

*Possibly he’s uncomfortable – “I’m freezing.  Help!”

*Maybe he’s afraid of something – “That garbage truck makes a lot of noise and scares me.”

*There may be other creatures outside – “Don’t you dare come into MY territory.”

Those are a few of the scenarios, and each case is unique and involves a specific program tailored to each dog. It involves substituting new wanted behaviors for old unwanted ones by working on your dog’s senses – sight, smell, sound, touch, and even taste. It involves behavior modification on his part — and yours!  You may have even asked your veterinarian to help with medication — but medication alone will not solve the problem. Medication may help because it changes your dog’s brain chemistry so learning can take place easier. Your dog needs help with behavior modification and training so his behavior will change.

What Helps Dogs with Separation Anxiety?

Grounding -Dogs with separation anxiety need your help, and the first thing to do is to start having your dog do things respond to commands for everything he gets — food, attention, treats, play and walks all happen after he listens and responds to a command such as sit. This will calm him and help reassure him that you are leading the team. For complete guidelines click here.

Space-Separation anxiety dogs are often “owner addicts.” They want to be leaning, touching, sitting on, gazing up at or sitting their owners every moment. This needs to change. Get a dog bed. It doesn’t have to be fancy — a folded blanket will do — and give him all his petting and attention there. Treats are given there. Meals are given there. Make this the best seat in the house. Do not call him off of the bed to come to you, and leave him be when he is on it. This may be hard for you at first but things have to change, right?

Teach-Get the interaction you crave through training. Take a class, pick up a dog sport and find new ways to spend time with your dog — ways that don’t involve you attending to his needy side. If you want him more confident, you need to build his confidence through daily, fun training sessions. Developing shared communication between the two of you is a gift only you can give your dog.

Confinement -Many dogs can learn to be contentedly crated, as long as you take the time to make the crate a pleasant spot. Crating an anxious dog can prevent mishaps and calm him. If he is clean in his crate, the crate can be as large as you want. Start slowly. Introduce crating with treats — feed him in the crate and then crate for short periods when you are home. If you only crate when you leave, that can create crate stress.

Exercise- Physical Long walks, solo fetch games up slight hills and swimming are all good ways to give your dog a work out. Playing wrestle-mania with a friend’s dog works some dogs up, leaving them more excited and active. How do you know when you’ve found the right routine? When your dog is calmer after the session than before.

Mental- Mental exercise is just as important than physical, if not more. Games that build his self-control, focus and patience are key to him getting better when alone.

Calm- Our advice? Leave and greet your dog the way you leave and greet your parents or spouse — calm and matter of fact is perfect. Avoid long, drawn out, emotional partings because those only make matters worse for your dog. A good rule? Act the way you want your dog to act, he’ll follow your lead.  At the other end of the spectrum, skip yelling. As frustrating as this problem is, if you yell at your dog when you come home you’ll increase his stress about your coming home, making the anxiety more intense. Prevention is key, not punishment.

Lastly, keep your routine the same seven days a week. If you give your dog 100 percent attention on Sunday, expect an increase in separation issues on Monday. Do him a favor and make his life predictable.  Most dogs with separation anxiety can be helped.  Your dog can change, but you have to change first. Even though it’s the dog’s problem, only you can teach him a new way.

Separation anxiety is a complex issue and can be difficult but is usually not impossible to overcome. It takes time and understanding, and most of all, patience on your part. You may become frustrated during the training process because you’re working with a new ‘normal’, both for you and your dog. Expect the frustration, and work through it. You are your dog’s best hope. If it is separation anxiety, he cannot overcome this by himself and he will not get better over time. He does not have control over his fear – it really is bigger than he is.